Memories of Kiev in the 70s 

By Breda Nathan 

It’s such a long time ago, half a century, but I will never forget it.   

We were totally ignorant of the political system but thought we knew it all.   

It was that girl…  

I’m wondering where she is now.   

Did she ever get to travel or buy the shoes she wanted.   

I can only hope that in the years of freedom, she did.   

She and her friends were not happy.   

Some were reluctant or maybe frightened to express their true feelings, but she seemed to be putting into words, what many of the students were feeling.

Sometimes you learn big lessons in the strangest places or circumstances. Mine was on a beach named Olmeca (If memory serves me correctly) in Kiev.

Sometimes the people rather than the ‘places’ give a clearer picture.  

We were part of a group of tourists from British Universities on that trip to Russia.   

There were no direct flights from Ireland, but we had a wonderful travel agent in Dublin.   

He managed to arrange trips for us to go anywhere we expressed an interest in seeing.   

We got to China, Cuba and Russia with his help.   

The British group were brilliant. We got on so well.   

They were lecturers and historians and had interests in all the speakers and places of interest.   

We met up in London and by the time we arrived in Leningrad, we were friends. It was so exciting for us to visit Russia and we spent a great week in Leningrad (now St. Petersburg) The Hermitage Gallery stays in your mind.   

It took a whole day to see the treasures and paintings. We spent a few days in Moscow and marvelled at the beautiful architecture in Red Square.  

However, we were told where to go and when we could go. There was no way you could decide for yourself.

We were brought to meet the President and many of the then dignitaries of that time.

We listened to all the speeches on equality and the comradeship of the rulers.

We listened… but nothing stayed with me more than that student in Kiev.

Her name was Anyea, I’m not sure of the spelling, but very sure of the lessons learned from her few words.  

It was sometime in the mid-70s.   

We were finishing up with those few days in Kiev.   

The Iron curtain was still hanging darkly over Ukraine. It’s highly populated so chances of meeting the locals was increased.   

We broke a few rules and left the hotel through the back entrance to go and talk to the younger people on that side of the beach.   

They told us they were studying medicine and all kinds of medic related subjects.   

I was thinking this was great for them to get the opportunity to do what you want.   

We could only study what we could afford in those days.  

And then she spoke…  

“You are here… I will never be able to go to Dublin or anywhere else in the world… And you have the most beautiful shoes.”  

I looked down at my shoes. Yes, they were beautiful.   

Navy spindle heeled, with pointed toes and a little bow on the side.   

I can still see them. I had worked overtime and paid ten shillings a week for eight weeks to buy them, but that was my choice.   

My choice too, to travel where I liked, when I liked. It was my turn to speak.  

“I’m going home tomorrow” I started. “Would you like to try them on?”  

She hesitated and then pointed to a space behind the hotel. We moved over to the little alcove.   

She put the shoes on, and they fitted perfectly. Biting my lip I said.  

“You can have them. Meet me here in the morning and I’ll give them to you.”  

“Oh no no no,” she protested. “I didn’t mean to beg…”  

“You didn’t,” I assured her. “I’d like you to have them, please.”  

We met at the same spot next day and I handed over the shoes.   

She gave me a little box of caviar.   

She was so thrilled with those shoes, but she will never know how much I learned and remembered.   

We chatted for an hour and she was amazed at what we could do and where we could go at any time.   

There was no question of keeping in touch or exchanging phone or addresses.   

Any kind of communication outside Kiev was a criminal offence.  

The British tourists were better at following instructions than we were.   

They didn’t go against any of the rules and were surprised when we told them about our meeting with the local students.   

When Ukraine became free of USSR, I was happy for them and many times thought of the people travelling and even shopping.  

When news of the war in Ukraine made headlines, I was appalled.

Remembering that episode and thinking of all the young people losing their freedom and indeed many young and old losing their lives.

It’s impossible to understand how human beings can wage war anywhere. Imagine adult people sitting around a table planning invasions and sending young soldiers out to kill families and bomb beautiful cities anywhere? It’s beyond comprehension.  

These so called leaders are never in the front line themselves.

They make sure they are safe and secure behind mostly brainwashed younger people.  

I can only hope that in the good years for Kyiv and Ukraine, those sad students we met, found contentment, the means to travel and buy the shoes they liked.  

They say travel broadens the mind, maybe, it works in strange ways.   

I learned about and appreciated the freedom I had.   

I had my first lesson and appreciated democracy when I visited Kiev.   

Maybe when peace is restored in Ukraine and Kyiv, we will…   

No I will rephrase that.  

When sanity is restored in Russia, and peace and stability returns to Ukraine and Kyiv many people like me, will learn and respect freedom and what democracy means.