TRAVEL: Portugal’s picturesque capital

IT’S hard to say exactly why Lisbon is such a fantastic city break destination.

The fact it takes less than three hours to get there, it’s easy to navigate on foot and that it’s got perfect spring and autumn temperatures helps, but there’s plenty more compelling reasons why Portugal’s picturesque capital is perfect for a weekend or midweek getaway.

Food is definitely one of them. Lisbon has long been a favourite with foodies and the city’s food market culture is now booming.

Within an hour of arriving my partner and I stumbled upon the food tents of Mercado da Baixa, on Praça da Figueira, serving the most mouth-watering smoked meats, cheeses, delicacies and wines.

And that was literally just a taste of things to come. Over the next three days we tried to restrain ourselves while feasting at trendy market eateries like the massive Time Out Mercado Da Ribeira and the huge gourmet food court that is Mercado de Campo de Ourique,

The restraint was made a bit easier given that each morning (and afternoon, if truth be told) began with coffee and at least one pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg pastry to die for.

The most famous places to try these tarty treats include Café Pastelaria Benard and Café A Brasileira, located almost side by side on Rua Garrett but the price of their fame is crowds. We found O Melhor Pastel de Nata do Mundo on nearby Rua de Belém provided a more authentic, relaxed and no less tasty experience.

As a coastal city, Lisbon is a great destination for seafood lovers and we had landed just in time to catch Peixe em Lisboa, Lisbon’s annual Fish & Flavours Festival, 

Taking place at Carlos Lopes Pavilion, the festival offered an enjoyable chance to wash down bite-sized gastronomic delights – created from fresh fish and seafood by top international and local chefs – with a deliciously smooth Sôttal white from the Quinta do Sanguinhal vineyards just outside the city.

Another reason why Lisbon ticks all the boxes for a city break is convenience. We stayed at the wonderful Hotel Marquês de Pombal, a couple of minutes walk from the Metro and about three kilometres from Praça do Comércio, the largest of Lisbon’s mighty plazas.

Public transport is plentiful, cheap and speedy and there’s a Metro from the airport but Lisbon is very much a walking city so we took an afternoon stroll to the plaza to catch the Lisbon Hills Tramcar Tour.

These old school trams still rattle their way around the city and you can catch the number 28 for a cheap, but not so cheerful, ride past many of Lisbon’s sights.

It’s a regular public tram costing just a few cents to ride, and recommended in every guidebook meaning passengers, mostly tourists, are packed in like Lisbon’s famous sardines.

Unless you’re on a really tight budget, it’s worth paying the €18 for the private hop-on, hop-off tourist version on which you can breath, relax and enjoy trundling past the city’s historic monuments and stopping off at museums like the Archaeological Museum of Carmo, set in a fantastic gothic convent, or the National Museum of Ancient Art at Rua das Janelas Verdes.

But Lisbon was made for walking and while some of the steeper hills can be challenging, they’ll help shed some of the calories that’ll pile on from Lisbon’s fabulous food and bring you to viewpoints, such as the garden at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcantara, that provide super panoramic views of the city.

Alfama, the oldest district of Lisbon and a delightful maze of narrow streets, is another perfect spot for a stroll and where you’ll find the Church of The Infant Jesus and St George Castle that overlooks the city from millennium old walls. Lisbon has no shortage of cool markets, and we had one of the best on our doorstep outside Hotel Marquês de Pombal on Avenida da Liberdade.

This impressive wide boulevard turns into a flea market at weekends selling all kinds of bric-a-brac, trinkets and handicrafts and during the evening there’s a few pop-up bars situated under trees where you can enjoy a beer or two before bedtime with the incredibly friendly, helpful locals.

Tucked away under the massive 25 de Abril Suspension Bridge, this is where you’ll find Lisbon’s coolest crowd and some great bars, cafes and eateries alongside quirky retail outlets selling original, often handmade products.

Here’s a final tip: make sure you Don’t miss Ler Devagar bookstore where you can chill over coffee and have a chat with the friendly creator of its mechanical flying bicycle and metal steampunk gadgets.

FACT FILE:

• Ryanair flights to Lisbon start at €34 one way off peak and typically average around €70-€80.

• We stayed at the 4* Hotel Marquês de Pombal, Av. da Liberdade, 243, which offers a convenient location within walking distance of the old city and close to Metro stops.

• Temperatures rarely drop below 15C and Lisbon enjoys 290 days of sunshine a year.

• The Lisboa Card costs from €19-€40 for 24-72 hours and covers holders for transport on all Lisbon Metro subway and buses and trams as well as entry to 28 museums and monuments.

• To plan a trip, check out www.visitlisboa.com and download the Visit Lisboa smartphone app.