Dublin People

From Blanchardstown to ISIS battleground

William with Peshmerga fighters in a bunker on the frontline.

A BACKPACKER from Blanchardstown took adventure travel to a new level when he hitchhiked to a Kurdish frontline outpost, and stared into an ISIS stronghold.

Former Castleknock College student, William Meara (26), has spent the last year on the road travelling to more than 20 countries including Burma, Pakistan and Iran.

But his latest journey took him, and travel companion, Craig Reynolds (24), to a destination few venture into – because it’s an active war zone.

The daring duo had been travelling around Iran earlier this month and decided to hitchhike their way across the border to Iraq. After hours of questioning at the Iranian border they were finally allowed to cross into war-torn Iraq where they managed to grab a lift to a bus station and ended up in Sulaymaniyah in Iraqi Kurdistan, with no plan or any idea where they were heading next.

The intrepid travellers befriended some locals and were invited to a house belonging to a man called Shalaw where they spent the night drinking whiskey and trying their hand at traditional dancing.

The following day Craig got a call from their newfound friend who invited them on a trip they’ll never forget.

“Craig got off the phone, turned to me and uttered ‘fancy heading to the front lines to see the fight?’”, said Will.

“Never shying away from a unique experience of the road, we agreed it would have to be done. As one of the only active war zones on the planet, getting to the front lines of an active assault would likely never come around again.”

Will and Craig were met by Shalaw and a Peshmerga fighter by the same name. They were loaded into the back of a people carrier and barrelled down the roads through the desert, speeding past a burning oilfield on the way.

“The smell of sulphur burned in our nostrils and the flames billowed under the sun,” Will recalled.

The journey also took them through several refugee camps and checkpoints before they finally reached their destination and were invited to a military base by a general.

Word of their arrival had spread and two foreign volunteer fighters from Canada and France came to greet them. They were given a tour of the area and saw several destroyed villages and one still in flames.

They got as close as 300 metres away from where ISIS fighters were dug-in waiting for darkness to carry out their assaults. 

“In the last month alone, three soldiers based in this outpost had been killed by ISIS snipers,” said Will. “We stood in the very bunker where this had taken place. Peering over at the enemy, sporting AK-47s we were shaking with a potion of nerves and bewilderment as to how and why we got here.”

Thankfully, the two travellers made it back to safety, and have arguably the most amazing holiday snaps ever taken. Will admits the trip to the frontline was the “maddest and probably the most stupid thing” he’s done on the road, but the duo are unrepentant.

“People are terrified to consider places in the Middle-East like Pakistan, Iran and Iraq but apart from face-to-face conflict, most of it is completely safe,” said Will.

“The people are the most hospitable on earth. Everyone wants to bring you to stay with their family, introduce you to their friends and even restaurants won’t let you pay for food they are so happy to have you there.

“Trying to buy medicine in a pharmacy led to an invite to a wedding!”

Craig admits to being terrified during the journey but also has no regrets.

“We never thought that something like this would happen when we left home,” he said.

“It was terrifying, but exciting at the same time. I guess it’s a story for the grandkids. I’ve really learnt what it’s like on the ground and what people go through here. It’s not easy, yet everyone will meet you with a smile warmer than the sun.

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